John Livingston Learmonth of Decanter

JT Rouge 2013 – ***(*)
Plum red robe, legs. Has a fat, plump bouquet – an easy generosity of simmered red berries which lasts well, goes nicely deep. The palate picks up closely from the nose, with a rich, fluid offer of red stone fruits laced with keen, darl, licorice-influenced tannins. It has a quiet complexity, nudges of cut, rockiness, with agreeable fluid content. It tastes as if there is a good Mourvèdre presence, a fine and firm spine at its centre. The finish is clear, saline, long, with breadth and juice there. It is young, with good implicit vigour and overlay of opulence.

JT Blanc 2014 – ***
Quite a full yellow robe, which look oak influenced. The nose has a floating quality, with lime fruit and a restraint about it. Other aromas include licorice, orange zest, dried apricot, some honey. It will benefit from decanting, and further ageing. Carbonic gas peps up the attack; it runs straight as a dye, is tight and knuckled on the finish, with a build in core there. It’s not really singing, is all very polished, a metropolitan take on white Rhône: it’s still in the cellar. If you are patient – wait another three years – I would go for that option, so drink from 2019. It’s fresh enough behind the carbonic gas to live OK. It has enough depth to go on in life, but Day 2 shows very evident oak on the palate. Cod fish with it helps, but it’s still a largely cellar wine for now.

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